GMT, Out of spite.
I designed this watch because I couldn’t design it at work.
The Orologi Calamai GMT Automatico is my version of the everyday watch: restrained, sharp, mechanically honest. No committee, no trend forecasts. Just the kind of GMT I wanted on my wrist.
Slim by Intention
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Slim by Intention *
THE PROPORTIONS
Slimness is a fight.
An automatic GMT brings thickness with the complication. I worked on how that volume feels on the wrist.
A refined mid-case, sharper transitions and carefully balanced bezel and crystal reduce the apparent height. The lugs stretch the silhouette horizontally.
Small geometry decisions. A noticeably quieter watch.
THE DESIGN
Beauty without noise.
A clean dial, controlled proportions and a GMT hand that gets on with its job. Quietly Italian, with no need to shout.
The bracelet took considerably more arguing. It needed to belong to this case: tighter, more architectural and coherent from end link to clasp. More time, more money. Worth it.